SPORT CLIMBING: TWO RECLAIMED WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP TITLES
The fifth day of the IFSC Climbing World Championships Hachioji 2019 featured the Lead semi-finals and finals. With a lead wall that was marginally shorter than average, the routesetters created some inspiring traverses to make up the distance and push the climbers to their limits.
Two Medals for Slovenia
The women’s event saw three Slovenians through to the final round, as well as two Japanese climbers to represent the host country.
Austria’s Jessica PILZ returned to the World Championships with hopes of defending her Innsbruck 2018 Lead title. However, she slipped off traversing across the lower part of the headwall and had to settle with sixth place. Current Lead World Cup frontrunner, Chaehyun SEO (KOR) fell with the top in sight, completing her World Championships debut in fourth place, behind home crowd favorite, Ai MORI (JPN).
Following her Bouldering World Championships win, Janja GARNBRET (SLO) easily made her way across the traverse and towards the final hold before losing her grip one hold short of the finish. However, it was enough to obtain the coveted gold medal and earn a second Lead World Championships. Her compatriot, Mia KRAMPL finished just behind her in second place.
ONDRA Returns to Form
An endurance heavy route awaited the men during their finals round. The crux proved to be the transition from the bottom of the headwall to the traverse with only three climbers managing to successfully stick the move.
Reigning Innsbruck Lead World Champion Jakob SCHUBERT (AUT) was determined to retain his title and managed to take the lead until Adam ONDRA (CZE) out climbed him by one hold, pushing him down to a provisional second place. However, it was the current leader of the 2019 Lead World Cup series, Alex MEGOS (GER) who ultimately took home the silver medal, matching SCHUBERT’s result and coming out ahead due to countback to the semi-finals.
After a difficult bouldering final, ONDRA was able to redeem himself with this win, seizing his third Lead World Championship gold medal.
After a well-deserved rest day, the climbers will prepare to go fast in the Speed World Championships beginning Saturday, 17th August. The live stream of the speed qualifications and finals can be found on the official IFSC World Championships website.
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